Monday 30 May 2011

Izakaya Den

114 Russell Street
Melbourne 3000

People visiting Izakaya Den for the first time need to know three things. Firstly, allow yourself some time to find the entrance - the establishment is well hidden to say the least. When you reach 114 Russell Street, you'll start scratching your head and wondering whether you have the right address. There are no signs and the external door looks very much the clothing retailer, with a number of international brands listed on the glass. Find this and head down the stairs (I wish someone had told me this beforehand!). Secondly, if you aren't dining in a large group bring your patience hat as you will not be able to book and will consequently need to wait upwards of 40 minutes for a table (on a Friday night). I know what you're thinking. 'Surely this is too much effort for one meal?'. Good things don't come easy, which brings me to my third point. Once you finally get seated at Izakaya Den, it will not take long before you declare yourself an addict. The funky, buzzing atmosphere and glorious food will reward you for your persistence.


The first thing we noticed about Izakaya Den was how mind blowingly long it was. After our eyes adjusted to the dim lighting, we quickly realised that this was a clever illusion created by way of a very large mirror at the end of the room. Still, it is longer and narrower than you would expect. The bar spans the entire length of the room, partly occupied by a completely open kitchen. The question of whether Izakaya Den is predominantly a bar or restaurant is somewhat contentious. There are a huge variety of drinks on offer, many imported exclusively from Japan (and reflected in the price). The vibe is young, fresh and ultra cool, exuding energy and fun. If you are shown a sofa seat, be sure to request the next available bar stool or table or you may find yourself wanting more space. Good beats are guaranteed.

The staff certainly don't have it easy. With absolutely no rest for the wicked, they dart around the room at a cracking pace. In spite of this, they are surprisingly courteous, friendly and always willing to assist with food recommendations. It does not take long at all for someone at Izakaya Den to take your order, and there is a similarly short wait time before the food is delivered. The staff are an absolute testament to this place. Just how they can be so efficient in clearing used plates and topping up water given the sheer volume of patrons is beyond me.

Steamed snapper with rice in bamboo leaf ($7.00)
We were like little kids on Christmas morning when unwrapping these parcels of joy. The snapper was delightfully fresh, the glorious sweetness seeping into the black rice and creating a wonderful flavour sensation. The subtle taste was just perfect.

Spicy tuna tataki, garlic soy ($18.00)
The presentation of the tuna tataki was so immaculately perfect that it was almost too good to eat. Each piece was exactly the same size and thickness, the luscious red flesh bordered by meat seared with precision. Did it taste as good as it looked? You bet. The tuna was absolutely 'melt in your mouth', the mayo rich, thick and creamy. The elements complemented each other to the T.

Den fried chicken ($10.00)
It's not often you go wrong with fried chicken. It's also not often that it's so mind blowingly good. The batter was light, crisp and airy, but the real surprise was how tender, moist and beautifully seasoned the meat was. It's so good that there's an explosion of juice when you bite into each piece. This was a memorable and highly addictive dish.

Octopus, pickled cucumber and wakame ($7.00)
The octopus and wakame are so fresh that you would be forgiven for thinking that they were just plucked out of the ocean and delivered straight to your table. The octopus had the perfect amount of 'bounce' and was effortless to bite through. I can't emphasise how amazingly refreshing the wakame tasted. This is one that simply can't be overlooked.

Salmon roll, pickled turnip and shiso ($16.00)
Another course, another beautifully presented dish. Like every dish of the night, the ingredients were tantalisingly fresh, their natural flavours dominating and exciting the taste buds. Though not as memorable or spectacular as the other items we sampled, the salmon rolls were another pleasant experience.

Sakata coated prawns, citrus mayonnaise ($12.00)
The prawns are extremely generous in size and, unlike those found in many Asian restaurants, are crisp and bouncy. For that little bit of quirky-ness, yes, they are coated in Sakata rice crackers. This may sound somewhat odd but creates a perfectly light, crisp shell much like tempura, trapping in the moisture of the prawn. I must make special mention of the mayonnaise, which was so smooth it was like eating silk. It was a tad on the acidic side, which complemented the deep fried prawns.

Sweet corn 'kaki-age' ($7.00)
The corn fritters were again wonderfully crispy and deep fried to golden brown perfection. The corn itself retained its freshness. Each kernel would explode with sweet juiciness when bitten into. The green tea salt was innovative and a real treat for a matcha lover such as myself.

Barramundi fillet, hajikami ginger ($15.00)
When I first saw this dish, my first thought was 'well, they can't get everything right', due to how incredibly ordinary it looks. But don't be fooled by appearances. One bite of the tender, juicy barramundi flesh triggers an orgasm of flavour. The subtle charred flavour goes hand in hand with the miso based seasoning. The barramundi is sweet and there is no hint of that off putting earthy taste that can sometimes accompany this fish. My only regret was that we did not have the stomachs to try other dishes from the char grill menu.

Black sesame brulee, orange peel ($10.00)
Black sesame is one of my absolute favourite ingredients in the world. Needless to say, I was excited to see this dessert on the menu. When I cracked the crisp top, I was greeted with a rich, creamy, velvety smooth brulee. The flavour of the black sesame was fully infused and added incredible depth of flavour. I have ordered this dessert at a number of fine Japanese restaurants and Izakaya Den's version was simply the best.

It is difficult to fault the wonderful food Izakaya Den has to offer. Every dish seemed to outdo the one before it, and the buzzing atmosphere provided the perfect environment to unwind and enjoy yourself. I have read a number of reviews that have been critical of Izakaya Den's price to quantity ratio. What must be kept in mind is that this is, funnily enough, an izakaya, which is essentially Japanese tapas. You would not expect that the portion sizes be comparable to mains. Approximately $60 per head (excluding drinks) was enough to satisfy the hunger of two big eaters after a long week at work. Izakaya Den is definitely a place I will frequent and recommend to anyone. Yes, there is a lot of hype surrounding it, but this does not automatically mean that it is undeserved. Any establishment this good will generate buzz and excitement. It is sad when people automatically associate this with being 'overrated', without giving themselves a chance to enjoy what is on offer. They are truly missing out.

Casual Dining/Bar 

Food - 5/5
Ambience - 4/5
Service - 4.5/5
Price - 4/5

Total - 17.5/20 

Izakaya Den on Urbanspoon

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