Thursday 2 June 2011

Crystal Jade

154 Little Bourke Street
Melbourne 3000


I should probably clarify one point about Crystal Jade - apart from name, it bears absolutely no relation to the infamous Asian dumpling chain. While the name is associated with delicate xiao long baos and hand made noodles overseas, the Chinatown restaurant serves yum cha for lunch and Cantonese cuisine by night. While I don't recommend the yum cha, the mains dished up by Crystal Jade are amongst the best you'll find in the city.

Black Pepper Beef
What sets Crystal Jade apart from the multitude of other Chinese restaurants is, first and foremost, the quality of the ingredients used. This is particularly noticeable in their meats. The beef dishes are made with good quality eye fillet that is cubed and cooked to medium rare perfection. An absence of artificial tenderising agents means that you're able to taste the natural flavour of the meat. The black pepper sauce is a stand out, the use of deep fried garlic slices adding boldness and textural depth to the dish. Also worth noting is their roast pork. While the serves are a bit on the small side, they use a quality lean cut of pork belly. The taro coated duck is also a favourite. The meat is wonderfully tender and melt in your mouth, whilst the taro topping is smooth and creamy on the inside but deliciously crispy on the surface. Unlike many other restaurants who add buckets of flour or potato, it is 100% taro and full of depth. If you're not a fan of duck, they also make taro baskets that can accompany any stir fry of your choosing. 

Taro Coated Duck
Dried Chilli Calamari with Taro Basket
Like any respectable restaurant, you can't really go wrong with the live seafood. Do note that their prices are on average 30% to 50% dearer than other Chinese restaurants, so I wouldn't come here hoping to go crazy on the mud crabs. In terms of the seafood offerings on their a la carte menu, the quality is surprisingly hit and miss. The fish dishes are prepared with good quality cod - absolute lightyears apart from the basa or low quality rockling served by peers. Don't make the same mistake I did by ordering a fried (salt and pepper) fish dish. The richness of the cod does not lend itself well to being deep fried and whilst the batter was light and crisp, the dish was a little too much. The calamari with dried chilli is bursting with flavour and will excite the taste buds, but the quality of the calamari is not of the same standard as their other ingredients. It's thin and slightly tough. If I wasn't such a fan of the flavours in this particular dish, I'd be sure to avoid all calamari mains. Be sure to try the prawns - they're big, fresh, bouncy and sweet. But a warning - ensure your group is small or fist fights may ensue, as there are only about 8 prawns per serve. 

Salt and Pepper Cod
The desserts aren't limited to banana fritters or fried ice cream at Crystal Jade. Here, you will find a relatively wide range of speciality sweets including glutinous rice balls in red bean soup, sweet taro paste (it's not as dodgey as it sounds) and red bean pancakes. Their glutinous rice balls are chewy little pockets of delight, filled with a to die for black sesame paste. They're made in house and are the best you'll get in Melbourne, hands down. 

Glutinous Rice Balls in Red Bean Soup
Glutinous Rice Balls in Roasted Peanut
Ambience is neither here nor there. You get the impression that they're trying to pitch more up market, but the somewhat tacky seats and standard Chinese restaurant tables contribute to a relatively generic environment. Service is also nothing to write home about, but having done the rounds in Chinatown where it's notoriously offensive, Crystal Jade is definitely on the better end of the spectrum. The food arrives promptly and usually all at once, and the wait staff at least manage to smile rather than grunt and moan at you. They're also very quick to pour and refill your tea, which can be somewhat of a luxury in Chinatown.

Japanese Tofu with Shitake Mushrooms and Dried Scallops
Crystal Jade is definitely not your typical Chinese restaurant. It's kind of like the over performing older sibling. The quality of the ingredients and multi-dimensional flavours are far superior, even down to the tea (be sure to ask for the exquisite 'flower tea'). While it's not exactly cheap, prices are very reasonable for what you're getting. If you're fed up with mediocre, MSG laden tackiness served with a generous side of bad attitude, be sure to drop by Crystal Jade next time you're in Chinatown.

Casual Dining 

Food - 4/5 
Ambience - 3.5/5 
Service - 3.5/5 
Price - 4/5 

Total - 15/20 


Crystal Jade on Urbanspoon

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